Easy trip to Heidelberg and we return our rental car and decide that it would be coolest if we walk to the venue, which is on the opposite site of the old town pedestrian village. Maybe not the best idea with Sylvie’s big roller luggage but we do it anyways. Pretty beautiful town, but usually the case is, the locals hate the old town as it overruns their space with tourists. It’s an interesting argument. Tourists are coming because the town is pretty. I can understand their frustration though. Heidelberg is a university town too so I can imagine the whole scene is pretty transient. It was really pretty anyways, and the whole town is overlooked by this massive castle on the side of a hill/mountain, that is amazing. I’d never seen a castle like this one before. My plans on hiking up there before the show were thwarted by a lack of time but I had it in my head that I must explore it before we leave in the morning.
We loaded into this cool venue and soundchecked and then it was dinner time. One of the best meals of tour was had here. We were taken to this really authentic German restaurant that also happened to brew their own beer. Yes! Unfortunately being a vegetarian you don’t get to really sample the classic German diet so I had to settle for tagliatelle, which was delicious regardless, but I got to watch everyone else eat, and share their sides which were soooo good. There was sauerkraut, cabbage and potatoes. All of them so good, especially the warm red cabbage. I had never tasted anything like that. The beer was amazing, and mine was served in a krug, which is a stone mug. Very cool experience.
Back to the venue to play as part of the Enjoy! Jazz Festival. Funny right? Anyways, with my pre-dinner krug, and some red wine before I took the stage, I was feeling loose and ready to chat to these people. Sly and I played a strong set and really had fun. From the stage I asked for a mountain guide to get up to the castle, which I was told turned off it’s lights at midnite, and I thought I’d found some interested participants, but alas, after the show, and after midnite, it was me and a backpack of beer and my camera that started the cobblestone-stepped trek up the side of the hill over Heidelberg, with this darkened beast looming high above me. I know in these situations I have to keep my mind from wandering or else it’s ghostville 2011 up there, which it probably is anyways, but I tried to sip my beer and keep my cool and keep walking. I made it to the steps of the castle, which were gated off, and took a bunch of photos of the town, and the wall protecting the castle. It was hear that I heard footsteps running down the cobblestone path really fast. I lifted myself over the wall to see who was running and saw a young man high-tailing it from higher up around the castle, zigzagging his way back to the main entrance, down the hill, near the town. It was really bizarre and quite unsettling to see and made me super uncomfortable but I decided to forge on and continue where he had come from, to see if I could get higher up near the castle to take some cool photos. Near the top of the castle, where the trail split, I set up my camera to take some timed exposures of the castle. Opened another beer and focused my camera and took some photos. When I got up to turn around there was a women standing 6-7 feet away from me! Not kidding! She had totally walked up while I was in thought and I had not heard her. Completely harmless, but totally scared the shit out of me. It was brutal. After that I decided it was time to head down and back to the bus. I mean, what’s an older lady doing sneaking up on me at a castle in the dark at 1am? Not fair… Back at the bus I spun a yarn or two about the castle and then settled into my bunk to try and sleep.


I was really looking forward to our return to Freiburg. It was one of my favorite stops on the last tour and this time we had more of a chance to see the town. We also had a hotel room, along with the bus, to shower and prepare for the show and the hotel had a sauna so I rocked a couple really nice sweats before the show and it was great. We played a venue called Jazzhaus and the staff and audience were beauty. Some nice man after the show offered me his business card and said next time Sylvie and I come through we have to stay with him, as I had “said many nice things about his town”. After the show, with the adventure spirit being strong in this one, I trekked out solo, again, into the darkened town to explore the beautiful little streets of Freiburg. This town is cool as it has little tiny rivers that run down the streets. Well, not rivers, but little baby canals, that are bizarre and really beautiful looking. Not sure if they exist just to keep the streets clean or not, but they are an interesting addition to the quaint buildings, and narrow streets that make up the old town. After an hour or two of wandering and a bunch of photos I hit the bus for another short sleep and prepared myself for entering Switzerland for the first time ever.
Our first Switzerland show was to be held at Parterre, in Basel, and it was our own headline show, so to speak. The Obel team had a day off and our agents had booked us a gig at this awesome little venue. We arrived early and setup and then the house sound guy took us for a guided tour of the old town, before we had dinner. Andy, the amazing sound guy from Agnes Obel, offered to work our sound for the night, as he knew the set and because he’s a workaholic. Being massive fans of the sound he does each night with Agnes, we jumped at the chance. After a beautiful little walk, and an amazing dinner, that I still don’t really know what it was, but it was amazing, we settled into the backstage area to sip some wine and eat some chocolate and hang out with the promoter and with Agnes and Anne, who had come to see us play (so sweet!). It was nice to have a longer set and also to play more new songs. The crowd was super nice. Interesting to see how each crowd reacts to live music. The French and Germans seem to clap for a really long time after you play a song, and the Swiss were more stern, clapping lots but also being very attentive and not laughing as much at my amazing jokes. I think they were amazing anyways. Sylvie is still on the fence about them. Met a lot of nice people after the show and then once the venue closed, all the food and beer and wine came out and we listened to tunes and everyone carried on and got a little loose and chatted about this and that. Nice little party. Andy and I finished with a smoked-peat scotch in the neighbouring bar after everyone went home, and it put me over the edge and sent me to bed, happy to have played Parterre, and certainly happy to have found a new friend in Andy, our Scottish soundman. Thanks to Andrea at Parterre for showing us an incredible time and treating us like kings and queens…xo
The next day Sylvie and I took a cab to the Basel Casino, where we were to play a show with Agnes Obel. I’m not going to speak too much about this show because it was a weird one. Believe it or not, Evening Hymns isn’t really a casino band. And we certainly don’t like playing them. It was a weird hiccup on this tour, that we made the most of, but a strange place to play, with a nice audience actually. Basically this cold huge room in the bottom of a Casino, that don’t really seem to care about live music, or whether my shipment of cds we had mailed to the casino had arrived. Thanks! ![]()
I was happy to grab another sauna before the show though, in the hotel that was attached to the casino. The highlight of the night though was my dear friend Kristen driving hours from Geneva to come see us play. I hadn’t seen her in years and it was great having a couple beers with her and catching up. So nice for her to drive so far. So weird for her to see us play a casino. Haha… I think I spent the entire time trying to explain to her that we don’t normally play casinos. Anyways, it’s tough on tour trying to keep in touch with people and I’ve learned it’s so important to make the effort to see people from overseas when we’re over here. Such an amazing bonus to being on tour in Europe. A chance to re-connect with old friends from afar. As soon as the show finished we were on the bus and off, rolling down the highway for the biggest drive of tour. I think it was 16 hours, to the south of Italy, to play a festival in Bari, Italy.
When I finally awoke on the bus and slid open the little window in my bunk I knew we were in Italy. This leg of tour was so exciting for me because I’d never been to Italy or Switzerland and it’s amazing to have music take me to these countries. Italy, from the window, looked beautiful, as we were winding along the coast to Bari. At a roadside stop I bought a pizza that was awesome and then continued down the highway. The staff in Bari met us at the venue and we loaded in. Great little theatre and nice staff. They gave us a runner to drive us to a hotel to take a shower. Such a strange room, and we had to show our passports to get the keys, to shower. Bizarre. Ha…. This was our first show with Sir Martin John Henry, who had travelled from Glasgow to play a week’s worth of shows with us. Nice to see his set and to have some new blood on tour. Also, nice to have another character on the bus to stay up late drinking with. Haha… We had a nice set and sold out of records (!!!!!) and then packed up the bus and the guys from the festival offered to take us on a tour of the old town of Bari, on the sea. We all piled into 3 mini cars and were whisked away through the streets of the city. We bought some beers from a little bar and then walked along the sea with a big posse and through the narrow streets of the old town, which had such beautiful light. Feels so exotic, as a boy from Orono, to be wandering through this town at night, sipping beers and carrying on. After a couple beers we were driven back to bus and after another nightcap it was lights out in the bunk, to arise in Rome at noon.
I have no idea how our bus drivers were able to coax the bus through the narrow streets of Rome but I was awoken in my bunk to the bus parked infront of the theatre we were to play in Rome. After a load-in and a bit of confusion at the venue about set times, and after trying to figure out how to get merch to the next show, Sylvie and I and Martin decided we should go wander with the 2 hours we had and see if we can explore part of the city. We set out on the city, walking through our neighbourhood with our mouths open at how beautiful the whole area was. I wondered out loud how far the Colliseum was away, maybe we could see it. We stopped at a transit stop and checked the map and figured it was close enough to walk. We set out at a quick pace towards the Colliseum and actually made it there within 45 minutes, as the sun had set, and the lights were on. Stood there in awe, not just at how amazing it is, but how awesome it was that we were able to walk there before the show. Took some photos and then hopped on the subway back to the venue. Pretty impressive use of the metro I think. 1 euro for 70 minutes worth of transit in Rome. What a deal! Got back to the venue just in time to soundcheck and then eat about 12 different amazing pizzas. It was perfect. We had a great show and afterwards met a lot of nice people at the merch table, where we had no cds to sell.
Such a bummer, as a support act, where our only real source of income is cd sales, to run out of cds. At least we got to play this beautiful room for these great people, and to see some sights. I got a lot of really lovely emails from the Italians that attended both of our shows and I really hope we can get back there to play more shows in the future. Fell asleep on the bus and awoke on beautiful Lake Como, on the Switzerland and Italy border.
















































































































































